The problem is I can't even tell where exactly the wiring is supposed to be, so that I can re-wire it. I've looked from the front of the car all the way to the dash. My dash says it's 185 degrees outside all the time now. Since now I cant find the fog wire anywhere, along with the outside temp sensor. I'm not positive but I think during that time the fog wiring may have got caught in the wheel and ripped out. My wife drove the car w/out the fog light in. The passenger side fog light fell out from it. Got in a little fender bender the other day. But its over now and all this work just to swap out my bulbs for leds, they gave me the wrong ones and i forgot to put the plug back in Never doing that again When assesing the sheeth i couldnt for the life of me find the point where it snapped. This is the mess after cutting the sheeths off and finally finding where it has been pulled from its factory possition behind the reservoir bottle, i still had the cord that got ripped out so i could estimate roughly where it was snappped. This thick cord runs down the wheel arch and behind the reservoir bottle passenger side and has only one green cord with a black stripe down it which is the power for the fog light Here are two photos one of in the engine bay and the other where it was snapped off Okay so after a very painful hair ripping out experience i ended up cutting most the sheeth back from pretty much every wiring loom behind the reservoir bottle and found what one it is (same colour)((green with black stripe)) and just stripped another brown wire that was of a thicker gauge and crimpped them together and re sheethed I'll hook all the wires up with soldier seal connectors to keep the moisture out then.Ĭouple pics of location for pass. I ordered a new temp sensor for 10 bucks off ebay and will install it next week. The smaller brown/green wires show constant 5v. I temporarily butt spliced them in with wires to extend down to the new pigtail that plugs into the lamp bulb. I'm assuming the PC cuts power immediately when it sees a short or open circuit.Īfter hooking the fog lamp up and turning it on, worked perfect. I tried to test for 12v but all the meter would do is flash. The larger green/brown wires go to the fog lamp. There is a big package of brown wires that are grounds. I found yesterday the wires had been pulled out up by the coolant reservoir tank. I had nothing under the fender well area either.Īlso my ambient temp sensor does not work. Would anyone know where the start from to connect and fix ?I bought 2 fog lamps and 2 pig tails. These following Car Manufacturers are Required to have this Canceller.I hit curb lost fog light wire and ambient temperature wire does anyone know where it would We Highly RECOMMEND purchasing an Error Warning Cancellers for all cars. This helps prevent Flickering of your HID bulbs due to low power from your Factory Wiring Harness.Įrror Warning Cancellers prevent those annoying errors signs on your dash saying your headlight is out. The Relay/Anti-Flicker Allows you to run a power source from your car battery directly to your HID Bulbs. Our Relay/Anti-Flicker Harness is an optional upgrade, but we do Recommendpurchasing for all Cars and Trucks. Optional upgrades Include a Relay/Anti-Flicker harness or Error Warning Cancellers Two HID bulbs along with Two DC Ballasts 5 Different color options available 6,000k being the brightest. HID's are 5x brighter and last 3 times longer than your factory Halogen Bulbs. This Kit comes with our Standard Slim 35W DC Ballast. This H3 HID XENON HEADLIGHT CONVERSION KIT has everything you need to make the superior switch from Halogens To HID lighting with the best visibility for those dark nights.
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